It is located in the southeast corner of the Azores archipelago, 100 km south of São Miguel, and 600 km from the island of Flores (the western most island in the archipelago). Geologically, it is the oldest island in the archipelago, with formations that are 8.12 million years old. Due to its age, and no historical evidence of volcanism, the geography of the island tends to be more mature and includes larger deposits of sediments then can be found on the other islands of the archipelago. Similarly, marine fossils have been discovered on the island (in Prainha and Lagoinhas) that date back 117-130 million years (the Pleistocene epoch), and others (in Ponta do Castelo) dating back 5 millions of years (to the end of Miocene and beginning of the Paleocene. These deposits are evidence of an older island environment associated with both volcanic and sedimentary development. Generally, Santa Maria is known for the lack of volcanism during period of human intervention, although seismic events are common due to its proximity to the Glória Fault, a offshoot of the Azores-Gibraltar Transform Fault.
The island is 97,4 km², with a ovular shape, extending from the northwest to southeast generally characterized by two geomorpholocial regions:
- A dry clay plain in the west, occupying two-thirds of the island, with its highest point 277 meters above sea level (near Piquinhos). Due to the impermeability of the soils, this regions is arid with fewer leafy plants or grasses. To the north and south the principal points of colonization occurred (Anjos and Vila do Porto, respectively), and 65% of the current population resides in this region, which includes the parishes of Vila do Porto, São Pedro and Almagreira. Airport lands represent the largest use of the space, as the Santa Maria airport is located along the western coast taking advantge of the plain and lack of natural obstacles. River valleys along the north and south divide many of the communities.
- The eastern one-third of the island is composed of eroded hills and mountains, covered by areas of thick vegetation, pasture lands and river valleys. The tallest points on the island, Pico Alto (590 m), Cavacas (491 m) and Caldeira (481 m) are located in this region, which includes the parishes of Santa Bárbara and Santo Espírito, the more rural and agricultural lands on the island. This is a region of higher levels of humidity, with greater instances of wind, fog and precipitation, resulting in rich vegetation and endemic plant species.
Volcanic in origin, the geology of the island is characterized by a substrata of basalt deformed by a series of fractures in a northwest-southeast orientation. This is interlaced with lode and deposits of mafic silicate material. In addition, there are several calcium encrusted fossil deposits associated with marine formations, during a period of formation associated with Surtseyanactivity. The presence of these depoists, unique in the Azores, gave rise to the lime (calcium oxide) industry during the 19th Century.
The fossil deposits, usually located approximately 40 m above sea level, have generated great interest in the scientific community, resulting in several paleontological studies in the 18th century, including Georg Hartung (1860), Reiss (1862), Bronn (1860), Mayer (1864), Friedlander (1929) and José Agostinho (1937). The Regional Nature Reserve of Figueiral and Prainha, which includes tha Natural Monument of Pedreira do Campo, were created by decree of the Regional Assembly in order to preserve and protect this area of natural geological interest.
Soils in the drier western region are predominantly red clay, a consequence of natural alterations associated with pyroclastic deposits during the Palaeocene period, when the island's climate was warmer, more humid and the median sea level was 100 meters below current sea levels. These conditions allowed the formation of a fine clay, used later to support the pottery industry and export market (primarily to Vila Franca do Campo and Lagoa on São Miguel to be used as matéria prima of their traditional pottery. In Barreiro da Faneca the Regional Assembly decreed a protected plain of this arid soil in order to protect and preserve its characteristics.
Generally, the island coast is ringed by steep cliffs, finding their prominence in the area of Rocha Alta (340 m). In addition, several protected bays along the coast shelter white sand beaches or are guarded by many rocky islets. these include the villages of São Lourenço (and its islet), Praia Formosa (and its long sandy beaches) or the craggy islet of Lagoínhas in the north coast. Forestry, covering about 19 hectares, is confined to high-density Cryptomeria trees planted along the slopes of Pico Alto, and unkept parcels of wild plants dominated by mock orange (Pittosporum undulatum), common juniper (Juniperus communis), and laurel (Laurus azorica).
Due to the varying geomorphology, the population built homes dispersed throughout the island, forming small nuclei along zones with access to potable water (in the west) and in the valleys (in the east). Traditional homes were constructed from the ubiquitous black volcanic rock, painted white, with doors and windows accented in the available colors of the day. The chimneys of these homes are unique since, heavily influenced by styles from the Alentejo and Algarve, these were ornate or simple, but generally different from house to house.
Politically, the island is one municipality, Vila do Porto, with a poulation of 5,578 inhabitants (2001), divided into five parishes:
- Vila do Porto (parish), which includes one-third of the island, covering the western plain, the Airport and local communities such as Anjos and Santana encompassing 2,997 of the islands citizens.
- São Pedro. The northern parish, it includes the communities of Fátima, Paul and Pilar: 841 inhabitants (2001);
- Almagreira; the southern dry zone and transitional space that includes Praia Formosa and parts of the mountainous areas of Monteiro and Bom Despacho: 537 inhabitants (2001)
- Santo Espírito: the eastern corner covering Maia, Glória and Fontinhas: 723 inhabitants (2001)
- Santa Bárbara, the northern and eastern parish that includes Lagoínhas, Norte and the São Lourenço: 480 inhabitants (2001).
The island's economy passed through much of the cyclical evolution associated with the Azores. Initially, the economy was based on the production of wheat and woad, until the 16th century, evolving slowly to a subsistence economy based on cereal crops. This was also a period of pottery production, and export of the fine red clay to artisans on São Miguel (for the production of the same).
Generally isolated from the traffic between the New World and Europe the island depended heavily on agriculture until the 20th century, when US forces established the Airport in Ginjal. It became an international link after 1944, taking on a central position in trans-Atlantic air traffic during the mid-20th century. The island became dependent, almost absolutely, on the airport: first, during the phase of construction (when Marienses were involved in the construction or support) and later when air traffic controlin the north atlantic corridor was based in Santa Maria (FIR Oceânica de Santa Maria). For many decades, the airport at Santa Maria was the gateway to and from the Azores until the construction or renovation of smaller fields on other islands. Evolutions in the aviation industry (primarily of long-range airliners) removed the importance of Santa Maria as a trans-Atlantic stop, and other airports (such as those in Lajes, Horta and Ponta Delgada), better equipped and logistically advanced diminished the importance of activities on Santa Maria. The European Space Agency (ESA) established a satellite tracking station at the end of the 20th century, rekindling the debate on the island's dependency on the aviation sector.
In comparison with the other islands, the raising of cattle and milk production never attained the same level of dependency. Regardless, agriculture is still the predominant activity in the municipality, occupying 47.6% of the land. This activity is usually confined to small ventures, involving forging plants, small pastures and permanent holdings. Secondary industries are dominated by civil construction, sawmills, tile and block factories, artisan/handicraft producers and fishing. There are several commercial species of fish in the waters around Santa Maria, such as Sheepshead, Vejas, Red Snapper, Grouper, Wrasse, Mackarel,Achovies, Needlefish and Frigate tuna.
As with the rest of the Azores, tourism makes-up an important tertiary sector, associated with nautical activities such as sailing, windsurfing, water-skiing, sport fishing (Tuna, Swordfish, and Grouper) and scuba-diving, beach activities, pedestrian hiking and, for some, rabbit hunting. São Lourenço, Praia Formosa, Maia and Anjos are known as summer tourist centers, attracting visitors to the beaches, natural pools, summer cottages/homes and festivals.
Mariense culture, much like the rest of the Azores, is heavily influenced by traditional religious festivals and feasts. In particular, the festival of the "Divino Espírito Santo", closely tied to the 14th Century Queen Isabel, was implanted during the island's colonization by the Order of Christ and Franciscan monks and continues to mark the islands' calendars. These festivals include a religious ceremony, the "crowning" of one or more children with a silver-plated crown adorned with the symbols of the Holy Spirit, and culminates with a grand feast on seventh Sunday following Pentecost. On the occasion of these feasts, a traditional soup of bread soaked in a meat broth is distributed freely at the "Irmandades" and "Impérios" across the island.
In addition to parochial celebrations associated with local saints, the island celebrates the festival of Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres. On August 15 of each year, the municipality also celebrates a festival in honour of Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Our Lady of the Assumption), the patron saint of Vila do Porto.
During the last week of August, Praia Formosa is home to a world music festival: Máre de Agosto. The beach community is regularly overrun with tourists and local visitors, who travel to the island to listen to world music acts, who in the past have included: John Lee Hooker Jr., Kíla, Skatalites, Angélique Kidjo, Rui Veloso and Gentlemen.
Annual festivities com to a private close with the festival of the Confraria dos Escravos da Cadainha, in Anjos, at the beginning of September. A secular celebration, it is a fraternal private social and cultural event that celebrates the defense of Santa Maria (and in particular Anjos) from pirate attacks. It is a supported by the Centro Cultural Cristóvão Colombo.
Based on the natural resources of clay and wool, the handicraft industry in Santa Maria is centered on pottery, ceramics and wool sweaters, ornate sheets, blankets, towels and other embroidery. Homespun garments include coarse woolen jerseys, embroidered linen shirts, embroidered women's jackets and estamin suits. Similarly, straw hats, baskets and various other objects traditionally made from wood, fish scales, corn flask and metal are sold as souvenirs. These activities have been organized by the Santa Maria Handicrafts Cooperative, which also promotes other unique Mariense products: bread, sweets, pastry-making and weaving.
Traditional music and folk dancing are heavily influenced by the styles of theBeiras and Alentejo region. Several folk groups have developed on the island that reproduce the clothing styles, the music and traditional dance. Due to factors such as the climate and insular environment the style of music, songs, dance and instruments used (such as the viola de arame). Many of the dances have curious names, such as Pézinho da Garça (the Heron's dance), Moda do Moinho de Mão (the dance of the Hand Mill), Alfinete (the Pin), Balão (the Balloon), and Mouros(Moors). The Museu Etnográfico de Santo Espírito is am important place to investigate aspects of the history and culture of the island.
Apart from the Sopas do Impéro (served during Pentecosts), Santa Maria has a rich gastronomic history that includes Sopa de Nabos (a turnip soup), Bolo de Panela (a cake), Caçoila (a thick meat stew in traditional ceramic pot), Molho de Figado (a liver stew/sauce), Sopa de Peixe (a fish soup), and Caldeirada de Peixe (a mixture of fish or seafood in broth and/or bread). Sweet desserts, such as Suspiros (meringues), Melindres (honey cakes), Biscoitos Encanelados, Tigeladas (a pudding), Biscoitos de Orelha, Biscoitos Brancos, Biscoitos de Aguardente and Cavacas (sugar-coated biscuits), are also popular.
Similarly, the wines of the São Lourenço foothills, as well as other wines and sweet liqueurs, have been commercialized. These include Vinho Abafadinho and Vinho Abafado (both fortified wine liquers), Licor de Amora(mulberry liquer), Licor de Leito (milk liquer) and Aguardente, which are made using traditional techniques and favored following a dinner.
